Monday, August 08, 2005


In case you didn't believe me, here is a close up Posted by Picasa

Road to Shatili Posted by Picasa

This is an old fortress in Shatili where the driver thought people would tax anyone who was passing from Georgia to Chechnya. I am not sure if anyone lives in there anymore, someone was drying their laundry Posted by Picasa

Another part of Shatili, across the river Posted by Picasa

Mandatory nicotine break Posted by Picasa

Look, it's me! Posted by Picasa

These are our two jolly drivers. As you can see, both have happy bellies. And one even wore his shirt in a manner that is fashionable for older men here in Tbilisi - with a full display of his happy belly. Posted by Picasa

This is Shatili's more modern part. As you can see, there are about 20 houses and one road. It turned out to be much much smaller than we expected.  Posted by Picasa

There are no phones in Shatili and the only means of communication is this little radio house where the dude kept yelling about finding accomodations for us. His kind attempts were fruitless. Posted by Picasa

I am not sure what this was. Probably some sort of Soviet era antena.  Posted by Picasa

This mountain looked amazing so I took a picture Posted by Picasa

This is the Georgian side. The soldiers kept observing us with binoculars.  Posted by Picasa

This is the Chechen side. We didn't see any Russian soldiers although their station may have been obscured by another cliff. Posted by Picasa

So this is Military Mike and a girl named Shruti. Mike was really excited to get this close to Chechnya because he has been studying Chechnya and its language. If you ever meet him, he'll talk your ear off about Chechen history and politics and even let you touch his collar bone. Posted by Picasa

Some time ago, and I am not sure when and no one else knew, there was cholera epidemic in Shatili. The sick people would leave the village to die in these death houses in order to prevent the spread of the disease. Since there were people taking pics of the inside, I decided to do the same.  Posted by Picasa

I did an asshole thing and took pictures of the inside of the death houses. Apparently, I should not have done so out of respect of the dead. Well, here it is. If you look closely, you can really see human bones. Posted by Picasa

I'd make a great Chechen fighter, no? Posted by Picasa

This is a view from a top of a mountain into a river below. It was kind of high up.  Posted by Picasa

More pretty cliffs Posted by Picasa

So Mike, the military guy, said that these trees look like a bomb had falled on them. Because of their slant and burned parts, he was quite sure that there was a fire and since the burned area is too small to look like a lightning had struck, he thought this may be a remnant from the times when Russians were bombing the Chenchnya/Georgia border in the 1990s. The road that leads to Chechnya is right below. Posted by Picasa

Beautiful valley Posted by Picasa

Really tall and pointy mountains Posted by Picasa

We ended the day with a perfect meal - khinkali, of course! Posted by Picasa

Friday, August 05, 2005

Since you have the aisle seat, I must be in the aisle

This week has been quite busy for me. Tuesday evening I spent cruising the streets, looking for girls to interview. It started raining right away therefore most stayed home. Of the ones that were outside, a lot were scared that we were from a media company and that we would video tape them. We drove around for three hours and found only three, of which one was underage so I couldn’t interview her. It was also an emotionally charged night for me because of the three, two were cutting their arms when they were nervous and when we saw them both had tiny cuts all over their forearms. And one of them had a fresh shiner so I am sure someone had beaten her a day or two before. The third woman was quite old, as much as I recall 40, with a bandaid on her face as well. I felt sorry for her because we passed her three times so she must have stood there in the rain for the entire night while we were out there. Once we interviewed and paid her, she left right away which means that she probably only earned that night the 15 GEL that we pay (about $8). I talked to a Georgian friend about this and she said that I should get real, that these women are much better off than a lot of other people in Georgia whom I don’t see since I spend my days in the center of Tbilisi with a bunch of expats. I suppose she is right.

Since we only got two interviews on Tuesday, we decided to finish the project last night. It was complete opposite from Tuesday. We found the remaining three women within an hour; all three were talkative and seemed to do fairly well, considering their circumstances. Not to mention that they all seemed to be socially adjusted with good eye contact and appropriate affect (oooh, there is a social work word of the day). Our taxi driver was also a funny and talkative guy who throughout the night insisted that he would never pick up a girl on the street. Instead, he wines and dines a woman until she falls for him. I suppose here he is considered to be a romantic. I am not sure how wining and dining a woman until she sleeps with him makes him a romantic. Unless I have some old fashioned views on romance, based on soft cover books with Fabio on the cover.

Speaking of Fabio, where has he gone? He must be hitting prime age, I bet his hair is beginning to thin and he is slowly developing a happy belly. In Georgia, a happy belly is a must; often you can see an older Georgian swaggering down the street with a shirt on that is a little tight around his happy belly and top buttons opened so there is a bunch of chest hair sticking out. They usually smell of garlic as well.

Otherwise, everyone here seems to wrap up. Of the kids who are here for the summer like me, most are finishing their final projects and heading back to the States or are planning continuous trips to other parts of Caucasus and Europe. It sort of feels like the end of camp, everyone all of the sudden becoming better friends, there are tons of good byes, people are planning picture sharing parties (yeah, I don’t know what that is all about either, I am just gonna show up with some sort of alcoholic drink and watch people cry over their wonderful times in Tbilisi). There is a group supposedly heading out to Svaneti this weekend, it’s a region that is right below Russia and next to Abkhazia. It’s known for its untouched beauty and Svans, the people who inhabit it, who are known to rip off tourists. There is one flight that goes to Svaneti on alternate days and, according to a friend who just returned from there, it is almost impossible to get on the plane as it is a 17-seater and a lot of Svans travel back and forth. Apparently, when they tried to get back, they had to wait for three days in Svaneti, which included coming to the airport at 5:30am to reserve a seat and each day, they had to turn back because they did not have a VIP status and they were not relatives of the woman who sells tickets, which apparently helps ones chance as well. He was really angry about it when I spoke to him and apparently, a fellow traveler is going to write an article about it in the local newspaper so I will try to post it as well. In the end, instead of taking a 50 minute flight back, they took an eleven hour marshrutka ride back. As a side note, although it is a seventeen seater, the plane takes on several other people who stand in the aisle of the plane throughout the flight. Needless to say, I was a little hesitant to deal with the stress of handling rude airlines employees and did not want to sit patiently in the plane for four hours until the pilot decided to take off, something that happened when my friend was leaving. The friend also mentioned to me that the plane flies pending on weather conditions so when they were leaving Tbilisi, airline employees were asking passengers to call their relatives in Svaneti to find out about the weather conditions there. So although I don’t mind taking a risk of possibly flying into a storm with a bunch of people hovering in the aisle, I really did not want to have to deal with stressful airport situations. Besides, we may go to Borjomi instead or to Shatili which is right below Chechnya and Ingushetia, but I’ll keep you updated.

Monday, August 01, 2005

Yey to boiled meat!

By closely examining pictures below, I am sure you will be able to guess my weekend activities. In fact, you don’t even need to examine them, just briefly glance at them.

After repeatedly whining about the heat and the pollution of the city, I managed to convince my friend to drive me out to the mountains right outside the city. It took a lot of whining but it worked and I must say, it’s much cooler out there. Temperature-wise, that is. Well, also, it was very relaxing so it was cool in every sense, I suppose. Since both of us were hungry, we decided to stop by a place that served food outdoors, leaving diners with the impression of picnicking without having to bring their own food. I was quite excited because the doctor had mentioned that I can start eating meat although I had stay away from anything that’s fried. Of course, this leaves me with my recently favorite food – khinkali! If you’re not sure what khinkali are, check out my previous post with pictures, which I am too lazy to link up to at the moment. Unfortunately, the place was out of khinkali so I settled for a pulled chicken salad with bread. Not that exciting. I also ate one piece of shashlik since I was salivating over it and, at that moment, nothing could keep me from keeping my impulses intact.

After stuffing ourselves silly with food, we decided to drive to more secluded spots and bask in the sun and fresh air. I even made a vainags – I am not sure what the translation would be, it’s a thing that girls make out of flowers in Latvia. Whatever, not that important. I’ve also been battling with flies in my apartment and when frolicking in the meadow, I was struck with a memory of my grandmother gathering these specific flowers which flies happen to hate. I am not sure why, probably their scent is not pleasant to a fly but then again, being human, there is little I can comment about this subject matter. Miraculously, my apartment, although still not completely fly free, is a little more tolerable and flies seem to be occupied with something else besides landing on me.

In case you’re wondering why there are so many flies in the apartment, since I don’t have an air conditioner in the apartment, I keep my windows open which provides flies and other bugs ample opportunities to make my apartment their home as well.

Anyways, after frolicking and taking in breathtaking views of Georgian country side, we decided to pursue our main objective of the day to eat some khinkali. We lucked out the second time as the place, where we devoured our 15 khinkali, served us the last khinkalis. I gobbled them down with juices dripping down my chin. Looking back, I realize that I would have a really hard time being a vegetarian in this country since the week without meat was very difficult.

But I am happy to report that my stomach seems to be back in order. Last night, I had a beer which for whatever reason, didn’t taste that well but give me another week and I’ll be drinking it like milk.

Sunday, July 31, 2005


Picnicing (sort of) in the country side Posted by Picasa

C'est moi! Posted by Picasa